The Problem of Aging Hair - AND PRODUCT SOLUTIONS
When I’m working with clients with thinning hair, ultimately one of the most key conversations we have is about how difficult their hair is to style. They’ll use words and phrases like frizzy, or challenging, “it won’t cooperate,” or it’s hard to style even before they understand that they are dealing with hair loss or aging hair.
In many post-menopausal women, we see a “miniaturization" of the hair, meaning the hair becomes smaller in diameter.
I see that same trait in women as early as in their 20s, and believe it or not, teens - though their miniaturized hair may be concentrated more above the ears or around the hairline - the features are the same: frizzy, thin, stubborn, hard to style, and not like the rest.
People often seem confused by this challenging new hair, the frizz, when their hair was once smoother. Why it’s so hard to style? It’s simply a feature of miniaturization, and there are ways that you can deal with it.
The tendency of most is to heat style it more, to use a flat iron on those stubborn hairs and smooth them out, BUT that is actually making it worse. Sorry, but it’s true. Heat styling causes more breakage and more hair loss. There is no amount of blow drying and hot irons that one can use that will fix this frizz. I’m not saying that you can’t use what you need to get the look you desire, but to fix and repair you need some new game plays.
Take a look at the Ludwig scale of hair loss. This is mostly what I deal with in the salon: women who are in the stage.
There are Three Grades as part of the Scale. In Grade III, you will notice there is a lot of “scarring” (aka baldness), and for those clients there is not much that we can do. These ladies are perfect candidates for a wig or hair piece and they will be happy wearing a topper. Don’t knock wigs or toppers. There is a time.
Many of women in Grade II are still able to work with styling and root concealers and feel covered. Grade II women will find that the area you notice (pictured) that is most thinning is the most challenging and now you know why. If left untreated and without a good maintenance plan Grade I can quickly go to Grade II.
Enter gentle hair care.
The first thing you need to do is find products that will work to change the hair shaft. These products should repair the cuticle and cortex and create a stronger hair shaft from the root.
For styling I use: Rene Furterer Lissea Thermal Protecting Spray
This light-weight product is great for the finest of hairs. I use in on ALL of my clients before I blow dry them. Shine, and protection from up to 428 F.
For Maintenance my clients use: Rene Furterer RF 80.
This weekly dose of meds for your hair - it works against hair loss to naturally encourage the growth of stronger hair and improve the hair structure for thicker and faster growing hair.
Add Olaplex to your monthly routine. This is a cuticle fix and it will help multiply the bonds of the hair and make the cuticle stronger.
Do these things and you will be able to manage heat styling and take good care of your hair.
Finally, here’s the key list to help you, especially if you know your hair is thinning and you’re worried about going from Grade I to II:
- Avoid heat, air dry as much as possible until your have to use the blow dryer.
- No flat irons. If you are addicted to heat styling you need to use heat styling products. Here are my tried and true favorites.
- No relaxers or harsh straighteners. Damage city!
- Even hair dye can cause damage, avoid it if you can. I hate it, because right now in my life it is a necessary evil.
- Wash your hair well, clean your scalp. Great hair grows from a healthy scalp.
- Sleep on satin to help with the tossing and turning at night.
- Use a good quality comb.
Tell your hair you love it and you are there for it no matter what “grade” you are!